On Thursday, we got back from a week long "vacation" to Spain. Obviously, I say "vacation" because when neither of us is an active student or employee of any kind and you go galavanting off for a week, calling it a vacation only seems unfair to others who are really deserving of a vacation. (And ok, I'm still going to give myself a little break since I worked an average of 65 hours a week in the 9 months leading up the move).
Semantics aside, it was a great little jaunt and we were fortunate enough to cover all the bases and see most of our friends that remain there. Starting in Granada, we made it for Vanessa's birthday and spent plenty of time with her, Justin, Ivan, Isa... unfortunately, German wasn't there due to a family emergency. It definitely felt quiet without him, but it was still great to see everyone else. In Malaga, we spent time with precious Vero who indulged me in my nostalgic afternoon paseo around the city. It was already so different - hard to believe that so much had changed in a year, especially given it's Spain - but its character remained. I was reminded of how fortunate I was to have lived there, and how much I would like to come back... someday.
Finally, we made it to Madrid, where Bosse's sister and her fiancé live. It was great to see their new place (pretty close to amazing: 3rd floor corner apartment, on the plaza, wooden floors and doors, with plenty of balcones) and get back to my favorite candy shop (a ritual for me now).
And of all the places I noticed the difference in Spain, it was certainly in Madrid.
One thing that always impressed me the most, and sometimes outright annoyed me, was how clean public spaces were kept in the cities of Spain. Street cleaners are prevalent, trash cans are rampant, and one can frequently encounter city workers simply power-washing the sidewalks for that extra sparkle. That didn't seem to be the case this year, and for good reason too. Walking down many of the streets, I saw more trash on the ground than I could ever remember. The trash cans were full and workers were few.
We asked around our group of friends that had been there this past year, after we left, if there had been a marked difference in the sentiment they felt or had discussed among their Spanish friends, students, colleagues. None of the responses seemed positive, and some were outright despondent. Distrust in the government was high among Spaniards, and many seemed to lack the hope that they would see their country ever recover. We know some who have moved their money to other countries. My friend Vero left Spain last year to find au pair work in the UK, and she's already certain that she doesn't ever want to come home.
It makes me sad. I love Spain. Granted, we've certainly had our ups and downs, and most of the things that drive me the most crazy about the country I'm also convinced are many of the same things that are at the root of their current crisis (eg. not paying their taxes, exorbitant unemployment benefits, inconsistent education policies). But the parts I love most are also at risk of being lost at the expense of the ailing economy - even siesta is already on the chopping block. Most of all the country is in despair, and the vibrancy that defines Spanish life now flickers.
But I still remain hopeful that one day, not too far into the future, Spain will emerge and I'll be there in my own little casita on the Costa del Sol.
No comments:
Post a Comment